1. The chemical name of ferulic acid is 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, which is one of the derivatives of cinnamic acid. First found in plant leaves and seeds, it is a phenolic acid that is widely present in plants. At present, ferulic acid mainly comes from two sources: extraction and synthesis.
2. The application of ferulic acid in cosmetics
Ferulic acid is a kind of phenolic acid widely existing in the plant kingdom. Due to its strong antioxidant capacity and free radical scavenging effect, it has become a research hotspot in many fields such as medicine, food, beauty and skin care products. In particular, it has the functions of whitening, freckle removal, sun protection, etc., which makes it have broad development prospects in the beauty and skin care industry.
Ferulic acid is favored by the cosmetics industry due to two major characteristics: 1. It has good ultraviolet absorption around 290-330nm, and ultraviolet rays at 305-310nm are most likely to induce skin erythema. 2. Ferulic acid has a strong antioxidant effect, and has the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase, which can inhibit skin aging, inhibit the formation of melanin, and whiten the skin.
On the other hand, the combination of ferulic acid and other products can enhance its efficacy. A 1999 study showed that when used with vitamin E, ferulic acid can be used as a whitening ingredient for pigmentation, because it “can inhibit the production of melanin, possibly in an indirect way to inhibit tyrosine hydroxyl Enzyme activity.” For example, although ferulic acid itself is very effective, it works better with vitamin C and E. Ferulic acid can help maintain the stability of vitamin C and E and enhance their resistance. Oxidation characteristics.
A study by Duke University, a research institute of Hermes-Xulico in the cosmeceutical class, found that: in an antioxidant combination composed of 15% VC + 1% VE + 0.5% ferulic acid, ferulic acid can improve the chemical stability of VC and VE To provide double protection against light damage, it is necessary to simulate 4 to 8 times the solar radiation to form erythema and sunburn cells, effectively reduce the formation of thymine dimers, and enhance the skin’s anti-oxidative stress effect. Xiuli can say that the specially incorporated ferulic acid component can further enhance the antioxidant effect of VC+VE.
2.1 Some ferulic acid cosmetics
The molecular weight of ferulic acid is about 194 Daltons, and its small molecule and low water solubility make it easy for ferulic acid to enter the skin to exert its biological activity. Generally, the amount of ferulic acid added in cosmetics is between 0.1% and 1.0%, and it is even added to 3% in some European and American products. To
2.2 Formulations of some Japanese ferulic acid products
(1) Shampoo: ferulic acid 1.5%, ferulic acid triethanolamine 3.5%, propylene glycol 15.0%, menthol 0.1%, ethanol 15. 0%, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil 0.5%, anti-inflammatory drug 1.0% , Perfume 0.3%, refined water 65.1%.
(2) Liniment (%): ferulic acid 1.0%, polyvinyl alcohol 20.0%, ethanol 20.0%, glycerol 5.0%, perfume 0.3%, refined water 53.7%. To
(3) Skin care cream: ferulic acid 1.0%, squalene 10%, isopropyl myristate 7, behenyl alcohol 1.0%, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol 5.5%, monostearic acid Glycerides 2.0%, d-yiyi-tocopherol 0.05%, POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0%, xanthan gum 0.1%, 1.3 butanediol 2.0%, glycerol 3.0%, Sorbitol 5.0%, active agent 0.2%, pH adjuster appropriate, and refined water to 100%.
Note: In terms of stability test, ferulic acid has good stability when it exists in the form of solid powder, but when it is in an aqueous solution, it is susceptible to decomposition due to factors such as temperature, light, and pH of the solution, especially when exposed to light or heating. Both are easy to decompose.
At room temperature (25°C), ferulic acid has good stability in the pH 2.62 to pH 5.10 buffer solution, but significant degradation occurs in the buffer solution with increased pH.
The European Union allows ferulic acid to be used in cosmetics for the prevention of ultraviolet rays, anti-oxidation, whitening, freckle removal and sun protection.
Ferulic acid has a sunscreen function and is approved for use as a sunscreen in Japan.
Enter the name list of cosmetic raw materials approved by CFDA.
Enter the international standard name catalog of cosmetic raw materials (2015 edition), and the INCI name Ferulic acid.
Post time: Mar-18-2021